How to Sew In a Weave with Leave Out: Step-by-Step for a Natural Blend

Quick Answer

To sew in a weave with leave out, braid your natural hair flat, sew the weft tracks onto the braids, and leave a section of your own hair at the front or along the parting to blend over the tracks. The key is to keep the leave-out section small and manageable, and to protect it with heat and styling products so it blends seamlessly and lasts until your next touch-up.

How to Prepare Your Hair for a Sew-In with Leave Out

Before you braid, wash and deep condition your natural hair so it’s clean and moisturized. Detangle thoroughly—braiding tangled hair leads to bumps and an uneven base. Decide where your leave out will be: a few inches at the hairline, a side part, or a middle part. The leave out should be just enough to cover the tracks and blend with the weave—usually 1 to 2 inches wide. Any more and it becomes hard to manage and blend.

Apply a leave-in conditioner and let your hair air-dry or blow-dry it on low. Do not braid wet hair; it shrinks as it dries and pulls at the scalp. If your hair is fine or fragile, consider adding a little oil or scalp serum to reduce tension.

How to Braid Your Hair for a Sew-In

Section your hair. Use a rat-tail comb to create clean, straight parts. The braids should follow the direction you want the weave to lay—usually horizontal rows from ear to ear.
Braid each section flat. Start at the nape and work upward. Keep each braid tight but not painful. Use a small rubber band at the end of each braid to secure it, or tuck the ends under the next braid.
Leave out the front section. If you’re leaving out hair at the hairline, braid the rest of your hair back, leaving that front section loose. If you’re leaving out a part, braid all your hair except that parting strip.
Check the base. Run your hand over the braids. It should feel flat and smooth, with no bumps or loose ends. If a braid is too thick or lumpy, redo it—it will show through the weave.

Related read: What Is Weave Made Of?

How to Sew in the Weave Tracks

Prepare your needle and thread. Use a curved needle and strong thread (like upholstery thread) that matches your hair color. Double the thread for extra strength.
Start at the nape. Place the first weft track along the lowest braid, just above the hairline. Thread the needle through the braid and the top edge of the weft, pulling snug but not tight enough to pucker the braid.
Sew a continuous stitch. Work from one side to the other, catching the braid and the weft edge with each stitch. Keep your stitches close together (about 0.5 inches apart) so the track lies flat.
Layer upward. Sew each subsequent track about 1 inch above the previous one, overlapping slightly. Leave the top section (where your leave out is) free of tracks so your natural hair can blend.
Finish and secure. When you reach the last track, tie off the thread securely. Trim any excess thread. If you’re using a closure or leave-out piece, sew that in last, over the top braids.

How to Style and Blend the Leave Out

Blend the texture. If your leave out is natural and the weave is straight, use a flat iron on low heat to straighten your leave out. If the weave is curly, use flexi rods or a curling iron to match the curl pattern. Always use a heat protectant.
Conceal the tracks. Gently comb the leave out over the tracks. Use a small amount of edge control or gel to lay the hair down at the hairline. Avoid using too much product—it can flake and look stiff.
Trim if needed. If the leave out is longer than the weave, trim it to blend. Cut small amounts at a time, angling the scissors upward to soften the ends.
Set the style. Use a lightweight hairspray or a bit of oil to smooth flyaways. Do not over-style; the goal is a seamless blend between your hair and the weave.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Braiding too tightly. Tight braids cause tension headaches and can damage your edges. Braid snugly but not painfully.
Leaving out too much hair. A large leave out is hard to blend and manage. Keep it small and strategic.
Skipping heat protectant. If you use heat on your leave out without protection, you’ll cause heat damage and breakage.
Sewing tracks too tightly. Tight stitching can pull on the braids and cause discomfort. Keep stitches even and not too snug.
Forgetting to trim the leave out. If the leave out is longer than the weave, it will look obvious. Trim it to match.
Using too much product. Heavy gels and oils can weigh down the leave out and make it look greasy. Use sparingly.

How to Care for Your Sew-In and Leave Out

Wash your sew-in every 1-2 weeks with a sulfate-free shampoo, focusing on the leave out and the scalp. Dilute the shampoo with water and apply it directly to the braids, then rinse thoroughly. Condition the leave out and the weave with a lightweight conditioner. Dry your hair with a hooded dryer or air-dry—do not go to bed with wet hair, as it can cause matting. At night, wrap your hair in a silk or satin scarf to reduce friction. Oil your scalp and the leave out lightly to keep them moisturized.

FAQ

How long does a sew-in with leave out last?

A sew-in with leave out typically lasts 4-6 weeks. The leave out requires more maintenance, as it’s exposed to heat and styling. After 6 weeks, the braids may start to loosen, and the leave out may show signs of damage.

Can I wash my sew-in with leave out?

Yes, you can wash your sew-in. Use a gentle shampoo and focus on the scalp and leave out. Avoid scrubbing the tracks. Rinse thoroughly and condition. Always dry completely to prevent mildew and odor.

How do I protect my leave out at night?

Wrap your hair in a silk or satin scarf or bonnet before bed. This reduces friction and prevents the leave out from drying out or tangling. You can also braid the leave out loosely to keep it from matting.

When should I take out my sew-in?

Take out your sew-in after 6-8 weeks, or sooner if you feel tension, itching, or if the braids are loose. Prolonged wear can cause matting and damage to your natural hair.

Next Step: If Your Leave Out Needs a Break

If your leave out is damaged from heat or tension, consider giving your natural hair a break. A glueless wig can be a good alternative because it doesn’t require braiding or sewing, allowing your hair to rest. For a natural look, you might consider a 360 lace wig like the 12 Inch Body Wave Natural Black 360 Lace Wig, available at LaceWigsBuy. If you prefer a straight style, the 14 Inch Silky Straight #1B Lace Front Wig offers a natural hairline. Explore more options in the Human Hair Wigs collection.

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